Crafts of History

(Prof. Dr. Shaukat Mahmood discusses the splendors of Mughal Architecture)

It was in April 2005 that I undertook a study – trip of third year students (of Department of Architecture, International Islamic University, Kuala Lumpur, Malaysia) to Fatepur Skri, India. I was accompanied by two teachers Dr Zuraini Denan, the head of department; and Dr Ali Raza Soomro.

The group was of some 50 students. They were divided into five groups. Each one had to prepare a measured drawing of one monument. The monuments chosen for the projects included Diwan-i-Khas, Diwan-i-Aam, Daulat Khana, Mariam’s House and Sultana’s House. We the three teachers were to supervise all the projects. For two weeks everyday we traveled from Agra to Fatehpur Sikri, in the morning and returned in the evening. It was one of the most fascinating study-trips ever.

The Students group who worked on the Diwan-i-Khas project included Azlan, Ida, Jazmin, Mariati, Mazura, Akhtar, Nizar, Munira, Noor, Nurul Salisma, Faradilla and Siti.

Founded in 1571 AD by Jalal al –Din Muhammad Akbar (ruled 1556 – 1605), the third Mughal emperor of India, Fatehpur Sikri, the sprawling capital city of Mughal-i-Azam, is located 37 km west of Agra. The medieval capital was built as a homage to a saint Shaikh Salim al-Din Chishti by whose supplications Akbar blessed with a son, also named Salim after the name of the saint, lovingly called Shaikhoo, again after the name of the saint. He became Jahangir upon becoming the emperor. The saint lies buried in a beautiful tomb built of chaste white marble. This Lilliputian tomb is in the north of the courtyard of the great Jami’ Mosque of Fatehpur Sikri.

The city was originally enclosed by a gridle wall 11 km long punctuated with nine gateways and accommodated halls, palaces, gardens, pleasure houses, resorts, baolis, towers, mosques and tombs. Besides hammams, caravanserais, servant-quarters and stables.

Diwan-i-Khas is a red sandstone building. It came into use as soon as it was completed till the time Akbar left for Lahore. Anthony Monserrate defines Akbar as a great and versatile building enthusiast.

“Akbar is so devoted to building that he sometimes quarries stone himself along with the other workmen. Nor does he shirk from watching and even himself practicing for the sake of amusement the craft of an ordinary artisan. For this purpose he has built a workshop, studios and workrooms near the palace for the finer and more reputable arts, such as painting, goldsmith work and the manufacture of arms”.

A misnomer mystery shrouds as this, one of the most fantastically conceived yet enigmatic buildings of Fatehpur Sikri. It has been identified as the Diwan-i-Khas, the Jewel House and even Ibadat-Khana. R Nath in his book ‘Some aspects of Mughal Architecture’ writes, “This building has nowhere been mentioned in the history of Sheikh Abul Fazl, Mulla Badaoni and Khwaja Nizamuddin or in the accounts of the foreign travelers. How this small but beautiful building came to be identified as the Diwan-i-Khas is not known”.

Royal complexes of Mughal emperors wherever they were built had Diwan-Aam as well as Diwan-i-Khas. So the question arises if this building is not Diwan-i-Khas then were it is in the whole complex since Diwan-i-Aam is there.

Diwan-i Khas is a very special building that measures an ultimate square in its plan. Its northern and southern facades are symmetrical and so are eastern and western facades. The most prominent feature of the four facades is the series of brackets that support balconies and chhajjas.
(projections). The brackets continue inside creating a unique decorative device. This building is wholly built of red sandstone measures 13.18m on each side externally. From outside it looks like a double story building though it is not. On top at each corner there are chhatris (kiosks) having white domes. The roof in the middle of four kiosks is in the form of a small ziggurat rising in three steps. The four facades, at outer and inner sides, at mid-level have balconies with low balustrade made of grilles. These are supported on double brackets. Each side has a rectangular entrance in the middle measuring 2.2m wide. The architraves of these entrances are supported on serpentine brackets, one on each side.

The most outstanding and intriguing feature of the building is its interior. Interior is a square hall of 8.74m and that means walls are 2.53m thick. Within the thickness of the walls are housed flights of staris. The two flights are located on the left side of entrances on the eastern and western side. In the middle of this hall stands the central column. This has several tiers or section. At the bottom of the base is a square platform which shrinks inside by virtue of leafmouldings. Above this three stages are carved with floral designs arranged geometrically.

Below the collar of the capital there is a chevron pattern. This stage of the column is octagonal is section. Above this is the collar of the column from which springs the most fascinating feature of this column as well as the building. Initially 16 serpentine bracket-like formations emerge at this stage but towards their top they go to 32. This flowering of capital has at least five recognizable stages. The construction is tedious and carvings amazing. This huge platform circular in plan support emperor’s seat above and by virtue of four bridges is connected with the balconies running all the four inner sides. Bridges run diagonally and go to the corner. Below the bridge in each corner there is 1/4th capital as there is in the middle. These four are attached to the corners (groin of the two walls). Bridges and the central seat have grilled balustrade 0.45m high and slightly inclined outwards. All balconies and bridges are 0.71m wide. The ceiling of the building is a crossed ribbed-vault, turning inwards from each side reaching the apex where there is a pendent molding.

Historians believes that Akbar had concocted a new religion of his own called Din-i-IIahi. He used to sit on his throne in the Diwan-i-Khas while his Nau-Rattan and people stood below.